Skillfast-UK’s definition of the apparel industry includes the following activities:

• manufacture of work wear
• manufacture of men’s and women’s outerwear (including custom tailoring activities)
• manufacture of underwear
• manufacture of other wearing apparel, including hats, babies garments, tracksuits, ski-suits, swimwear, etc.; and accessories including gloves, belts, shawls, ties, cravats, hair nets, etc.
• cut, make and trim
• wholesale of clothing

The manufacturing element of the industry employs approximately 70,000 people, which is equivalent to one fifth of total employment in the sector. The sector employs a further 48,000 in wholesale. Over recent years, there have been significant reductions in the number of sewing machinists due to an increase in offshore activities.

The apparel manufacturing industry generates total output (GVA) worth almost £1.5 billion, with wholesale activities generating a further £2 billion.

There are large concentrations of employment in the industry in the East Midlands, London and the North West, but there is industry activity in most regions.

The overall market outlook for apparel is positive as the sector has grown since the early 2000s. Slower market growth is expected for 2005-2007. However, UK manufacturers’ sales within this market are following a steadily downward trend as imported goods rapidly increase their share of the market. With growing middle class spending in some developing countries and an increasing globalisation of consumer tastes, there are significant opportunities for high value exports of apparel.

Key to the success of the industry, as in fashion design, is the need to address technical skills gaps in pattern cutting, CAD/CAM, garment construction, sample-making, market knowledge and commercial awareness.

It is estimated that 44% of those working in this industry have no qualifications or hold their highest qualification at lower than NVQ Level 2 equivalent. More than 25% of those working in the industry are qualified at NVQ Level 4 or above, similar to the whole economy average of 30%. The high proportion of low-skilled workers reflects a traditional reliance on school leavers to fill production operative roles. Highly qualified individuals reflects the recent influx of graduate entrants, particularly designers.

The main driver of organisational change within the industry is the growing importance of overseas supply to the UK apparel market. Future business drivers for the industry include:

• continuing increases in levels of offshore sourcing
• performance of global economy
• downward pressure on retail prices
• consumer preference for cheap, fashionable supermarket products
• changing sourcing strategies of major buyers in retail garments and careerwear/workwear
• increase in counterfeit products

Source: Skills Needs Assessment – apparel manufacturing 2005a and Foundation Degree Sectoral Frameworks – clothing design and manufacture 2004